The diets of our pets, like citizens, tend to include more omega 6 fatty acids rather than omega 3. This is an imbalance that needs to be addressed.

Omega 3 fatty acids are requisite because they assist with the proper formation of cell membranes, cardiovascular functions, nourish the lining of the digestive tract, and work to  keep your cat or dog’s skin and coat smooth, soft and shiny . Another requisite function of omega 3 fatty acids is that they work to reduce inflammatory problems inside the body. If you discover the coat is dull and brittle or if he/she tends to have dry skin and scratch a lot, it may perhaps be due to a lack of this particular fatty acid.

There are different types of required fatty acid supplements that are available, however which selection you decide to supplement your dog or cat’s diet can be a bit of a dilemma.

Pure plant oils such as flax oil, evening primrose oil, safflower oil or a blend of plant oils is a wonderful alternative to fish omega-3 fats. These must be “cold-pressed” oils, because opposed to oils that are typically extracted with chemical solvents. The trouble with plant oils is that animals have a harder period converting the fatty acids to a form finest used by the animal’s system.

Fish oils, such because salmon oil, halibut liver oil, or cod liver oil are more simply converted and used by an animal’s body. The downside is that fish oils often contain deadly toxins, including high levels of dangerous PCBs, dioxins and detectable levels of mercury. Farmed salmon is the worst for contamination and contains less omega 3 acids than wild salmon. At this moment nearly 30% of all fish are farmed, with salmon being in the 90% farmed range. As well, farmed salmon are often carriers of disease and parasites. When supplementing diet using fish oils, you want oils that come from wild sources, not farmed.

There are also blended fish and plant oil supplements available. These often include a mixture of salmon or cod liver oil and flax, safflower or other such oils that make available a mixture of 3 to 4 parts omega 3 oils to 1 section omega 6 oils. Giving your animal a combination fish/plant supplement may perhaps be a excellent alternative to believe, since they must contain fewer toxins because they are not strictly fish oils, yet always should be better assimilated by the animal’s body than straight plant oils.

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No matter how healthy your dog is, they face an almost constant assault from both external and internal parasites such as fleas, ticks, mosquitoes, mites, lice, heartworms (spread by infected mosquitoes), tapeworms (often obtained by ingesting an infected flea), roundworms, hookworms, whip worms, and even microscopic protozoa. Just what risk do these insidious pests pose to your canine companion though, other than the obvious itchy skin that can result from the bite of a flea or mosquito? The list of potential diseases and physical symptoms can include, but not be limited to, the following:

Babesiosis
Colorado Tick Fever
Ehrlichiosis
Giardia
Haemobartonellosis
Lyme Disease
Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever
Tick Paralysis
Tick-Borne Relapsing Fever
Tularemia
West Nile Virus
Anemia (i.e. a deficiency of red blood cells and/or hemoglobin which carry oxygen throughout the body)
Decreased lung function
Encephalitis (i.e. inflammation of the brain)
Flea allergy dermatitis
Hair loss
Heart damage and/or failure
Joint swelling and pain
Numerous gastro-intestinal problems including vomiting, diarrhea, and loss of appetite
Skin infections
Suppression of the immune system
Weight loss
Death

When looking at the “big parasite picture” from this angle, it can all seem terribly frightening. However, the healthier your dog is, the better they’ll be able to defend themselves against such attacks and/or to rebound from any symptoms or ailments that they do acquire. Healthier dogs also seem to be “less attractive” to such pests and, therefore, less likely to be attacked by them in the first place.

The other good news is that there are a wide range of weapons to ward off and/or to fight such pests and their associated health risks. Such products often come in the form of medicinal and “natural” collars, dips, foggers, oral drops/pills, powders, shampoos, “spot-ons,” and sprays. While many claims and testimonials are made pertaining to the effectiveness of such medicated products, one must take into consideration the potential risks that are associated with their use.

Risks can be minimized by using the least amount needed for the shortest length of time deemed necessary (e.g. spacing medicated flea treatments six weeks apart instead of four and only using them during the “warm season,” not year round). Such risks can include, but not be limited to, the following:

Any chemical-based parasite product, whether a flea collar or a pill, can cause an allergic reaction ranging from mild (e.g. skin rashes, hair loss) to deadly (e.g. epileptic seizure).
Chemical-based parasite products can be very harsh on the toxin-filtering kidneys and liver and can lead to their eventual failure.
Chemical-based parasite products can cause a variety of autoimmune disorders whereby the body begins attacking itself instead of the offending organism.
The overuse of any chemical-based parasite product can lead to the offending parasite developing a resistance to such a product.

What’s a dog owner to do then to protect their beloved furry friend from an onslaught of parasites and their associated health risks? How about taking a more natural approach, one that’s generally far safer, much less expensive, often times more effective, and that focuses on also controlling your dog’s environment instead of just “attacking” your dog directly?

These are just a few of the options you have when waging such a holistic-based war:

Ants – allow these “lesser of the environmental evils” to survive as they feed on flea eggs and larvae
Boric acid products – contain a powder that attacks the outer “protective layer” of the offending parasite – most often flea larvae – by drying it out; can be applied to your dog’s “environment” (e.g. bedding, carpeting) and directly on them too, if used cautiously (the dust can be irritating to the lungs)
Diatomaceous earth products – contain a powder made from the hard outer shell of single-celled algae (i.e. diatoms) that generally works in the same manner as boric acid; can also be added to food to help rid your dog of roundworms and other various parasites

Essential oils – including eucalyptus, cedar, and rosemary
Flea combs – should be used daily and any fleas that are found should be “drowned” in soapy water
Flea traps – use light and/or heat to capture fleas in water or on “sticky traps”
Herbal products to be applied topically – including collars, powders, sprays, shampoos, and towelettes that contain such herbs as citronella, eucalyptus, lavender, lemon, neem, and penny royal.
Herbal products to be ingested – including powders, pills, and liquid drops (e.g. tinctures that are made much like flower essences but that are extracted using grain alcohol instead of water); contain such herbs as black walnut green hulls, cloves, and wormwood (the combination of those three herbs is said to be effective at killing more than one hundred species of parasites, including all of the various “developmental stages”)
Homeopathic remedies – including Chenopodium, Cina, Filix mas, Sulphur, and nosodes for heartworm
Mosquito dunks and/or drops – contain a naturally occurring bacteria that is only toxic to certain insects; can be added directly to bodies of mosquito-laden water (e.g. birdbaths, ponds)
Natural predators – put up purple martin bird houses and bat boxes to aid these parasite-eating predators
Nematode worm products – can be regularly applied to your yard as they feed off of flea larvae and other outdoor pests (e.g. grubs)
Ultrasonic “repelling” devices – including collars and combs
Vitamins and supplements – including B vitamins, brewers yeast, garlic (in moderation), and essential fatty acids
Vacuum your home often and immediately dispose of its contents outside of the home
Wash your pet’s bedding weekly in very hot, soapy water

The use of such “natural” parasite-controlling products and practices will likely have fewer negative side effects on your dog than if you use their chemical-based counterparts. Your own home environment will also likely have less “toxic residue” than if you used chemical products.

Most holistic veterinarians and other holistic practitioners will tell you that they believe the use of chemical-based parasite products will actually weaken your dog’s immune system, thereby doing more harm than good to their overall health and well-being. In such a compromised health condition, they’ll actually be more vulnerable to a parasitic attack. Many holistic practitioners might also tell you that the risk posed by a population of parasites is far less than the risks associated with using “toxic” control products.

Your holistic health care team will instead likely encourage you to focus on providing your dog with the best environment you possibly can – high-quality food, homeopathic and herbal remedies regular exercise, mental stimulation in a stress-free home, and minimal exposure to Western medicines – and to use “natural” products when needed to control parasites. The result just might be that your dog will fend better in the “battle of the bugs” than if they are repeatedly dosed with potentially deadly chemicals.

Whatever method of parasite control you chose for your dog, focus on prevention, plan your attack, and be consistent with implementing such a plan. It’s simply far easier to prevent such things as a flea or worm infestation than it is to get rid of one and to clear up the lingering physical effects on your beloved canine companion.

By Emily Derby

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